Complete with many landmarks commemorating the landing (and death) of the great European explorer Ferdinand Magellan, the weighty layers of history made themselves felt as I walked through the streets of Cebu. In a way Cebu is like a mash-up of Boston, for the history, and Miami, for the beautiful beaches nearby and modern amenities – including the biggest SM City mall in the Philippines, as my HSPFI co-workers informed me. You really can’t ask for any better than that.

Unfortunately the weekend started off on a slightly traumatic note, as our taxi arrived at Magellan’s Cross and was immediately surrounded by a crowd of child beggars. The taxi driver did his best to shoo them away, but we ultimately had to brave wading out and through the crowd as the kids followed us and begged for money. I wished there was a prescribed action that one could take when facing child beggars – we didn’t give them any money, but I felt horrible about myself anyways. Elizabeth Gilbert wrote a particularly compelling passage in her latest book Committed about her encounter with child beggars in Cambodia:

I picked up my pace and walked faster toward the hotel. The crowd of kids tagged behind me, around me, in front of me. Some of them were laughing and blocking my way, but one very little girl kept pulling at my sleeve and crying out, “Food! Food! Food!” By the time I neared the hotel, I was running. It was shameful.

So much of my experience as a Kiva Fellow in the Philippines was about poverty – but somehow nothing I’d experienced before made me feel quite as shocked and ashamed as being surrounded by all those child beggars in Cebu.

By the time we made it to Magellan’s Cross, the child beggars had scattered – probably because there were security guards posted by most of Cebu’s tourist attractions. So Ed and I admired the cross, as a sign underneath proclaimed that “the original cross planted by Ferdinand Magellan on this very site April 21, 1521″ was encased in the visible cross of tindalo wood.

We then wandered over to the Basilica of Santo Niño, which was just a short five-minute walk away from Magellan’s Cross.

There were lots of visitors in the Basilica, but the church still exuded an atmosphere of peace. The courtyards I found to be especially beautiful and serene.

Ed and I ambled out of the Basilica…

…and I asked if he’d be interested in walking back towards a big, interesting-looking sculpture we had passed in the taxi earlier on the way to the Basilica. I had seen it in some sort of promotional image for Cebu, and thought it must be another famous landmark. It was a hot morning, but Ed gamely said yes and we proceeded down the streets of Cebu, walking past another beautiful stone church on the way.

Turned out that the sculpture I had saw was the Heritage Monument in Parian Park.

The pride, unity, and cultural wealth of a race emanate from a people’s sense of self and history; from the early Filipinos, to the dawn of European colonization, the revolution of 1896, the birth of the Philippine Republic. The heroic contribution of the Cebuano people and the saga of events, which transpired on the islands of Cebu, are vital elements in the formulation of the nation we know today

More photos from Day Two in Cebu to come…

Related posts:

1. Snapshots of Bukidnon (from a Bus Window)
2. The Dangers of Too Many Fiesta Meals, or Adventures with Filipino Eats
3. At War with the Ants

Corroi kept trying to get a good picture of the Kalatungan Mountain Range, because she explained that the mountains were shaped in the form of a “sleeping lady.” Unfortunately the focus was kind of hard to get right from the bus, but she still managed to get some pretty good pictures of the mountains.

Quote wiki: “Bukidnon is considered by Filipinos to be the food basket of Mindanao. It is the major producer of rice and corn in the region. Plantations in the province also produce pineapples, bananas and sugarcane.”

I loved seeing all this lush green. Traveling in the field was my favorite part of the Kiva Fellowship, partially because there’s so much beautiful scenery to take in.

Corroi lamented the fact that I would miss Bukidnon’s famous Kaamulan Festival by about a week. She explained that the festival celebrates the seven tribes of Bukidnon. People would gather in Malaybalay, and there would be lots of street dancing and good food. Foreigners like to visit Bukidnon during Kaamulan to observe the festivities, Corroi added. Since I’d be missing out on all the good times, she took care to snap a picture of this arch that was going up in preparation for the festival.

The bus stopped by a bus/jeepney depot to drop off and pick up more passengers…

Corroi was particularly taken by the orderly display of this stand at the terminal.

Then we were back on the road again…

And Corroi managed to sneak a few more pictures in before the sky went completely dark and my camera’s battery died. She was particularly keen to get some pictures of the Kitanglad Mountain Range. Mt. Kitanglad is the second highest mountain in the Philippines and home to the endangered Philippine Eagles. Corroi had fixed the Philippine Eagles in my mind by telling me about how a local Filipino was arrested and tried for hunting and eating an eagle, not knowing that it was a precious national bird. But I guess that’s another story for another day

Related posts:

1. Snapshots of Cebu – Day One
2. Some Candids from Camiguin
3. Some Candids from the Field

Imagine you’re a loan officer who’s working for one of Kiva’s partner MFIs. You’ve been traveling around the field, collecting repayments from quite a few clients over the course of the day. It’s getting late, and you’ve amassed a huge amount of cash – the equivalent of a few months’ worth of income for locals. As the sun begins to set, you realize you’re still at least an hour away from the office – an hour’s worth of travel on your motorcycle, over rough roads that are poorly (if at all) lit. What do you think could happen next?

When I ask HSPFI’s loan or project officers what they find most challenging about their jobs, they always say repayments. Not just because all the hours spent traveling to get to clients is rough and arduous, but because project officers make tempting targets for robbers and thieves as they carry huge sums of cash repayments back to their MFIs. One of the HSPFI project officers who I met was actually robbed at gunpoint in broad daylight. At around 10AM in the morning, the project officer found himself confronted by a robber with a gun and was forced to hand over all the repayments he had collected. Shocked and confused, the project officer went home before heading to the police station to report the crime.

HSPFI project officers are generally fairly philosophical and accepting of the dangers that comes with this line of work (“It is a part of our job and duty… it is an experience.”) But still, it took me some time to digest the fact that many of the project officers who I’ve met and come to respect are quite literally putting themselves in danger every day. Not only are project officers potential targets while they’re on the road, but they can also come under fire from clients or clients’ families. One such encounter involved a project officer and a client’s drunken knife-wielding husband. Luckily no one was hurt, but I don’t think that project officer managed to collect the client’s repayment that day. (This also made me realize that there was another practical reason as to why MFIs tend to target women borrowers – most women are probably less prone to threatening MFI loan officers with weapons or other dangerous household objects.)

What do you do? I pressed. What do you do under these circumstances? After all, as one HSPFI project officer told me, it’s not like we can carry guns with us. Another project officer who’s worked for over thirteen years with HSPFI shared that she tries not to react in difficult situations where she is being provoked by angry clients. You do not react, just do your part. And smile. Smile on the outside even though it’s hard on the inside. She added that most people will usually cool down with time; some clients have felt so ashamed of their outbursts that they’d visit the office and apologize to her.

There are also other strategies that project officers can employ to help reduce their personal risk. Project officers at one of HSPFI’s branches would travel in a group to a particularly remote village, setting out early in the morning on their motorcycles to visiting several villages on the way, and returning to the office after night has fallen – trusting that there is safety in numbers. HSPFI has also taken steps to help ensure the employees’ safety – project officers do not carry cash and give out disbursed loans to clients at their centers or their homes. Instead, clients visit HSPFI branch offices to receive their loan checks. I had guessed the reason behind this policy (as I’m sure you have as well), but I asked why anyways. It was because the risk for project officers carrying all that money one-way was already so high, HSPFI couldn’t risk doubling the danger to project officers by asking them to carry funds to AND from the MFI.

Most of all, project officers tell me that they pray. HSPFI staff pray that God will protect the project officers and ensure their safety while they’re working in the field. Next time you receive your repayments from Kiva, I hope that you can send a thought (or a prayer) to the hardworking MFI loan officers, who are working in difficult and dangerous environments to make sure that your money gets repaid!

Eva Wu has already finished her placement in the Philippines, but she crammed so much field traveling in her last few weeks that she went home with a bunch of stories left to share. She plans to linger on for a bit longer until she’s caught up with her Kiva Fellow duties here and on her personal blog. In the meantime, support HSPFI by joining the HSPFI lending team!

Related posts:

1. In Defense of “High” MFI Interest Rates
2. The Savings behind the Interest
3. After the Deluge – Election Violence and a Tropical Storm in Mindanao

Having read Meg’s excellent blog post “Bad Roads, Interest Rates, and MFI Sustainability” and the ensuing comments from Kiva lenders, I admit that I was rather baffled. Particularly by comments that varied upon the theme of: “In the U.S. you can get loans for ~8%! You can get credit for 18% interest, which we find high and oppressive! So how can MFIs charge 36% interest rates on loans to their poor clients, it is usurious, it can’t be justified…” so on and so forth.

I believe that if you were to plunk a U.S. bank into a developing country with limited infrastructure, where most clients don’t have ready access to the internet that lets them transfer money from one bank account to another with the click of a mouse, where you have to ask employees to constantly risk their personal safety by carrying huge amounts of cash over uncertain roads and territories, those banks would not be charging 8% interest or even 18% interest, but a much, much higher rate.

Still not convinced? Let’s try a quick breakdown of some actual numbers -

HSPFI, my host MFI and Kiva field partner, charges 3% interest a month on loans. So for a first-time borrower with a loan of P5,000 to be repaid over 5 months, in one month the HSPFI borrower would be paying back P1,000 on the capital, and P150 in interest. (The current exchange rate is 46 Philippine pesos to 1 U.S. dollar, so the USD equivalent is $21.74 in capital, and $3.26 in interest.)

The P150 interest collected on that loan covers salaries and benefits of not just the project or loan officers who collect the client repayments on a weekly basis, but also the salaries of admin staff members like the branch cashier, accountant and assistant accountant, as well as the branch manager. Let’s say our first time borrower lives in Camiguin. For HSPFI’s Camiguin Branch (which is HSPFI’s smallest but one of its most efficient branches), total salaries and benefits for their five staff members (three project officers, one admin staff, and one officer-in-charge/branch manager) in January 2010 came to roughly P27,500 (or $598 USD).

Apart from the salaries and wages of the branch staff, the P150 interest will also go towards salaries and benefits of the Head Office staff – HSPFI’s Executive Director, Director of Operations, HR staff, tech staff, community development staff, internal auditors, Kiva Coordinator(!), etc. – as well as Head Office’s administrative costs (for printing, office supplies, utilities, trainings and conferences…). Unlike the branches, HSPFI’s Head Office does not give out loans or collect interest from clients, so the branch offices make monthly contributions to help cover Head Office’s costs. HSPFI Camiguin Branch contributed P53,400 (or $1,161 USD) in management fees to Head Office this past month.

Still with me? Remember that our first time borrower is paying P150, or $3.26 USD in monthly interest on his or her loan of P5,000. But salaries and wages are hardly the only things that a functioning MFI has to pay for. Camiguin project officers spent about P4,500 (or $98 USD) on travel this past month. And to round out the estimated operational costs, total administrative expenses for necessities like utilities, phone, office supplies, rent, taxes/licenses, etc. for the branch came to about P26,150 (or $568 USD).

Note that this is PARTIAL operating costs for HSPFI Camiguin. Kiva is not HSPFI’s only (or biggest) funder by any means, and other funders (e.g. Oikocredit, SEAD, PCFC, SBGFC) actually do charge interest on loans to HSPFI. I left that line item out of the above calculations for the sake of argument that Kiva’s funds are interest-free, but if I were to add that line item in Camiguin’s operational costs would increase by about P49,800 (or $1,082 USD).

By now you’re probably tired of me repeating that our first-time HSPFI borrower is paying P150, or $3.26 USD in interest this month on his or her loan of P5,000 – 0.13% of operational costs. Surely you have to account for repeat borrowers who have taken out higher loans and are correspondingly paying higher interest fees. So if we increase the loan amount to P30,000, our now long-time, repeat HSPFI borrower would be paying P3,000 on the loan capital and P900 (or $19.57) on interest this month – 0.8% of operational costs. This P900 definitely goes farther towards contributing towards operational costs, but note that borrowers with P30,000+ loans only make up about 10% of HSPFI’s total portfolio.

The above is very condensed and much abridged, to keep this post from being three times as long. But by listing out all these figures, I wanted to show that running an MFI is not cheap. It’s easy for us to condemn 3% monthly interest rates are high, but it’s just as easy for us to forget that staff, utilities, rent and a whole range of other operational expenses need to be paid in order for an organization – any organization – to run.

Also, working conditions for MFIs in developing countries are very different from banks in developed countries. This may seem like huge duh point, but it bears pointing out that MFIs’ operational costs are high in part because you need enough project officers to visit hundreds of clients every week and collect cash repayments, and you need enough admin/other staff to support the project officers. U.S. banks don’t need employees to visit every one of their clients on a weekly basis to collect repayments. Furthermore, banks in the U.S. have access the excellent technology/infrastructure in place that allows for automated payments (and greater automation in general) – which helps keep interest rates low. To say that MFIs in developing countries have “high” interest rates in comparison to banks in developed countries with “low” interest rates ignores the fact that banks in developed countries have certain operational advantages that MFIs in developing countries don’t have, and need to compensate for.

At this point maybe some of you are thinking, “I don’t really care about MFIs needing to cover operational costs, I only care about how this 3% monthly interest affects Kiva borrowers!” Leaving aside the fact that there would be no Kiva borrowers without field partner MFIs, I had previously met a Kiva borrower who decided to stop borrowing from HSPFI, and I know she’s not the only person to have ever done so. The interest rate might have been a factor behind her decision to stop borrowing, although there might’ve been other personal factors as well.

But on the other side of the spectrum there are Kiva borrowers like Ms. Mellianita Moron. Since this topic of “high” interest rates had been weighing on my mind, I brought it up during her interview. I explained that businesses in the U.S. can get loans at much lower interest rates, so there are Kiva lenders who are worried that MFIs like HSPFI are charging overly high interest rates to borrowers in the Philippines. I asked what she thought about HSPFI’s interest rate – was it indeed too high?

HSPFI’s 3% monthly interest rate is ok! Mellianita exclaimed. Especially in comparison to other MFIs who she had borrowed from that charged 10% interest a month! And to top it all off the other MFI collects repayments on a DAILY basis, in comparison to HSPFI which collects repayments on a weekly basis. When I then asked if there are any additional services that she would like to see from HSPFI, Mellianita laughed and said that she wished HSPFI could increase loan amounts and release more loans at a faster rate, so she won’t have to borrow from MFIs that charge truly exorbitant interest rates and can just borrow from HSPFI. I looked around at the various center members and extended family who had gathered outside Mellianita’s sari-sari store to watch (and occasionally interject), as they all nodded their heads in agreement.

Eva Wu would like to thank HSPFI for generously allowing her to use figures from their latest financial statement in this blog post. She has lots of thoughts on the (unsexy) topic of MFI interest rates, but hopes for now that people can understand that asking why MFIs in developing countries can’t offer interest rates as low as banks in developed countries is a bit like asking why apples can’t be oranges. Or to use a more Filipino analogy, why lanzones can’t be rambotan.

Related posts:

1. The Savings behind the Interest
2. Does Microfinance Really Work?
3. The Dangers of Being an MFI Loan Officer

I was just two days off the plane and back in the Philippines when I heard that HSPFI’s 2009 Q4 Project Officers Meeting would be taking place the next day. I really wanted to make something for the POs as a small token of thanks, so I threw a video together and showed it the next day to whoops and cheers. I actually think this is the best Kiva/HSPFI video that I’ve edited to-date, so I was really glad to see it well-received.

A bit of context – the first part of the video is mostly made up of footage from the HSPFI 2009 Staff Christmas Party. The day kicked off with gift exchanges and team-building/general bonding activities at a nearby resort; the night activities took place in the HSPFI office and consisted of a big delicious dinner and the HSPFI staff dance competition (and videoke/impromptu dancing). Having seen how hard HSPFI staff works on a regular basis, it was really cool to see the organization give back to dedicated staff members on the ground with a kickass Christmas celebration.

(Video Background Music: Allison Crowe – “Immersed” and “Midnight”, available on Jamendo.com)

Other footage used in the video were taken from the 2009 Q3 HSPFI POs Meeting & After-Party; Iligan Branch’s 15th Anniversary and 2009 Client Christmas Party; and Gingoog Branch’s 2009 Client Christmas Party. I also threw in some of my favorite photos from various branch visits/field travels with awesome HSPFI POs.

Enjoy

Related posts:

1. Kiva Fellow, Pre-Trip Thoughts
2. What Do Kiva Lenders Expect to Hear from Kiva Borrowers?
3. Holiday Greetings – KF9 on Christmas

As a Kiva Fellow, I’ve seen the successes. I’ve visited businesses and interviewed clients who have succeeded because of microfinance. These borrowers were able to grow their businesses that not only provide the owners with a comfortable living, but also provide additional livelihoods for hired employees. Abhijit Vinayak Banerjee and Esther Duflo of M.I.T, and Dean Karlan of Yale wrote in their New York Times op-ed “The Role of Microfinance,” microcredit is generally viewed as either “transformative” successes, or “ruinous” failures. Having seen the former, I believe that much of the latter is caused by over-high expectations – that poor people all over the world would be lifted out of poverty through lending. When recent research failed to support this concept of global poverty alleviation, people started to lose faith in microfinance.

Again, from “The Role of Microfinance” (which I highly recommend reading if you haven’t already):

…as we see it, microcredit seems to have delivered exactly what a successful new financial product is supposed deliver—allowing people to make large purchases that they would not have been able to otherwise. The fact that some people expected much more from it (and perhaps they are right, may be it will just take longer), is perhaps inevitable given how eager the world is to find that one magic bullet that would finally “solve” poverty. But to actually blame microcredit for not promoting the immunization of children is no different from blaming immunization campaigns for not generating new businesses.

I believe that microfinance is a tool, like a hammer. Some people have natural creative skill with a hammer, whereas others have to invest some time in learning how to put the hammer to best use. Still others might decide that they don’t like using the hammer at all and opt for another tool. Overall though, has the hammer made people’s lives easier? Yes, it has – so it is a successful tool. Can a tool like microfinance be transformative? Yes, for some people. Should the tool be completely discarded (or discredited) because it does NOT transform the lives of everyone? No, definitely not.

In a previous blog post “The Savings Behind the Interest” I had written that the microfinance arena in the Philippines is crowded with players, and that there are a lot of microfinance institutions jousting for clients by offering a variety of attractive programs apart from loans. My host MFI HSPFI for example offers savings, insurance, business training, a small competitive scholarship program for clients’ children, as well as small community development initiatives. Other Kiva partner MFIs in the Philippines also have a similar array of programs, as several Kiva Fellows have shared. In other words, if you take product diversification and competitive commercialization as indicators of maturity, the Philippine microfinance industry has clearly “come of age.”

To be honest, I believe that most microfinance critiques focus mostly on the effects of lending to the poor. Many other programs like savings or insurance offered by microfinance institutions are ignored, so the critics are out of step with the maturing of the microfinance industry. Case in point – much of the recent public fallout over microfinance was fueled by randomized control trials (RCT) that measured the short-term impact of microcredit on clients, and most of those studies found no evidence of microcredit bring about a transformative improvement in household income or consumption. However, in “Does Microcredit Really Help Poor People?” Richard Rosenburg of CGAP noted that “Interestingly, the only RCT study of microfinance so far that found short-term welfare improvements looked at microsavings, not microcredit (Dupas and Robinson 2009).”

It’s important to remember that “microcredit” or lending is part of a suite of services that makes up “microfinance.” Especially in areas of the world with a mature microfinance industry (like the Philippines), microsavings is a part of microfinance. When you’re making a loan through Kiva to a Filipino borrower, it’s safe to assume that many of those borrowers are utilizing additional programs from partner MFIs in the Philippines, and are receiving other benefits that branch out beyond the loan itself.

Returning to my original question – does microfinance really work? The pragmatist in me says yes – but not in a magical transformative way for every poor person, while the idealist in me adds that the successes would mount if all the other microfinance programs offered by MFIs were taken into account. Rosenburg wrote in “Does Microcredit Really Help Poor People?” that, “For now, it seems an honest summary of the evidence to say that we simply do not know yet whether microcredit or other forms of microfinance are helping to lift millions out of poverty… [but] poor people think this ‘palliative’ is enormously important in helping them deal with their circumstances.” Even as we in the developed world throw up our hands and bemoan the ruinous effects of high interest rates, etc. the poor believes that microfinance has helped improve their lives and are “voting with their feet.” And that, really, is the most important thing.

Related posts:

1. The Savings behind the Interest
2. After the Deluge – Election Violence and a Tropical Storm in Mindanao
3. In Defense of “High” MFI Interest Rates

All the things that I had enjoyed in Eat Pray Love shone through when I watched Gilbert talk – namely, her humor, her thoughtfulness, her ability to combine the personal with the profound, and her ability to move people with her words. Learning that one of Gilbert’s GQ articles provided the basis for the movie “Coyote Ugly” (per Gilbert’s TED.com profile) was an additional perk. And that she had met her (ex)husband while working at the original Coyote Ugly Saloon? Mind sufficiently blown!

Related posts:

1. Anthony Rapp Talk on Rent and LGBT in the Arts!
2. The Dangers of Being an MFI Loan Officer

Re-posted from the Kiva Fellows Blog.

Merry Christmas! This holiday season Kiva Fellows are celebrating Christmas all over the world, in all sorts of different ways. Whether it be traveling, feasting, or working hard to bring you some additional Kiva magic over the holidays, it’s safe to say we’re all thankful to be serving as Kiva Fellows and glad to have found a wonderful community in Kiva.

We wanted to share what Christmas is like for KF9ers out in the field and around the world. So enjoy – and happy holidays!

In no particular order:

Nicki Goh, KF9 Senegal
This coming weekend, the Senegalese have a 4 day weekend with both Christian and Islamic holidays straddling the weekend. I will make the most of the time off work to visit the Sine-Saloum Delta on the Atlantic coast of Senegal – an area where my MFI SEM’s work is extremely important to ecovillagers. The delta is an area of immense natural beauty which is sadly at risk of desertification and where there is a high level of unemployment. This time I will be on vacation but I hope to return there at a later date to meet some of the borrowers for myself. Happy holidays to you all – whatever your religion!

Alex Duong, KF9, Vietnam
Christmas is not an official holiday in Vietnam. However, that doesn’t stop me from spending it with Kiva Fellows Gemma North, Josh Weinstein, and Katie Davis (KF7) in Cambodia! Couldn’t think of a better way to end one year and gear up for the next. I am extremely thankful for the personal development thus far and will continue sharing my thoughts with everyone here and here. A big happy holidays to my close and extended family around the world!

Josh Wilcox, KF9 Peru
Papa Noel (aka Santa Claus) is ubiquitous throughout the holiday season in Latin America, as is the Christmas spirit. I helped some Peruvian friends erect and decorate their artificial Christmas tree and am planning on spending Christmas day with my mother traveling through Buenos Aires between my two placements in Peru and Ecuador. Feliz navidad!

Eva Wu, KF9 Philippines
Christmas is huge in the Philippines – as to be expected in a predominantly Roman Catholic country I attended three Christmas parties, one of which was in November, all of which involved fun activities and good times with HSPFI staff and clients. Carolling, Christmas lantern contests, games, client awards, gift exchanges, LOTS of dancing… frankly it’s rather intimidating how most of my HSPFI work-friends can sing AND dance like pop stars. I’ve been acting as unofficial photographer/videographer at the Christmas parties, and edited some short videos for the HSPFI staff as Christmas/thank-you presents. Check out the party footage by joining the HSPFI lending team! Plug aside, I’m flying home to Belize for Christmas. Then I’ll be swinging by California (hello, Kiva main!) and Australia before heading back to the Philippines and HSPFI until end of February. So I’m excited about the upcoming travels, the holiday break, and the prospect of kicking off the new year as a Kiva Fellow. Merry Christmas to all!

Steph Meyer, KF9, Sierra Leone
Oddly enough, Christmas is a pretty major holiday here (even though Sierra Leone is about 60% Muslim). Shops and businesses put up holiday lights (none of which even pretend to be plugged into a working power source…), vendors and hawkers in the street sell tinsel, ornaments, and fake plastic Christmas trees, and everyone I see about greets me with “Compliments of the season to you”. In what is apparently very traditional Sierra Leonean fashion, I am spending my holiday at one of the many BEAUTIFUL beaches just outside Freetown with some friends. My MFI, LAPO-SL (coming soon to Kiva- keep an eye on the website!) has a number of Nigerian managers, so they left over a week ago to go home for the holidays, giving me a long and luxurious winter break. I am personally missing my Vermont snow big-time, but am enjoying soaking in the sun, working on side projects, and being a Kiva Fellow in Sierra Leone!

Zal Bilimoria, KF9, Ecuador
Feliz Navidad from Cuenca, Ecuador! This week I finished my Kiva fellowship with Fundacion ESPOIR, which is now an Active partner on Kiva.org after meeting a series of goals over the past few months! What this means is that they have established themselves as a reliable and strong MFI partner and now have the ability to fundraise more from Kiva lenders every month. Despite the national energy crisis in Ecuador, Christmas lights adorn homes, businesses and churches around the city, and from my apartment in Cuenca, every night around 9 pm for the past week, there have been fireworks. Everyone is in a rather festive mood. This past Friday, I was invited to our MFI’s holiday party at the regional manager’s home on the outskirts of Cuenca where we ate a lovely meal together and had many activities during the night among the 25 attendees including karaoke and dance contests way into the morning hours! This week I’m off to Costa Rica to spend the holidays and New Year’s Eve with Kiv a Fellow Alana Solimeo, so I wish everyone Happy New Year from the beaches of Tamarindo!

Taylor Akin, KF9 Togo
It’s definitely not going to be a white Christmas. Children stroll down the street proudly singing “Jingle Bells” even though many of them have never seen snow, fire crackers pop well into the night, and youth eagerly anticipate a night out on the town. This is Christmas in Lomé, Togo. While Santa Claus continues to be a familiar face around town, and a small Christmas tree occupies my room, the day is celebrated in quite a different way than back home in Toronto, Canada. The traditional turkey has been replaced by chicken, spaghetti, and fufu (pounded yams). The clouds and snow have been replaced by intense sun and blue skies. What I learned to think of as a family day is really more of a party day where Togolese youth celebrate in the streets until the wee hours of the morning. However you are celebrating your holidays this year, I hope that they fun, safe, and filled with laughter. Happy holidays!

Ilmari Soininen, KF9, Senegal
Joyeux Noel! I’ll probably be in the office until Christmas eve making sure we have at least a couple of generous helpings of new clients for the post-holiday rush. I’ll spend the night of Chirstmas Eve and Christmas Day with a colleague and her (huge) extended family in a village just outside of Thies. We’ll attend midnight Mass on the Eve and a service on Christmas Day. To balance out this holiness, we’ll be feasting on pork and beer afterwards. Should be pretty good.

Suzy Marinkovich, KF9 Chile
Felices Fiestas! Here in Santiago, Chile, Christmas (and the Latin American Santa Claus, as Josh mentioned: Papa Noel) is very widely celebrated. About 90% of Chileans identify themselves as Roman Catholic, so it’s no surprise why. Anyone who’s been around Santiago in the holidays knows that you can’t walk a city block without someone trying to sell you Pan de Pascua (Christmas Bread). Pan de Pascua is a typical Chilean cake, a sweet sponge cake flavored with ginger and honey. It typically has candied fruits, raisins, and walnuts inside. My husband and I are having our first Christmas without our families, so we will spend it cooking, hiding from the 90 degree heat (!), and eating a more rebellious form of Pan de Pascua that I found at the supermarket: it only has chocolate chips inside.

Kelly McKinnon, KF9 Leon, Nicaragua
On the front page of La Prensa on Sunday there was a photo of a very snowy Washington DC (my home base), the weather in Leon is a contrast to say the least! Around Leon people share holiday plans, usually gathering with family or making a trip to the beach! Restaurants have special menues, the streets are lined with vendors of gifts of all kinds, and the central plaza is now decorated with strings of red and white lights, a ten foot faux Christmas tree and a life size nativity scene. The scenes have been created in the front rooms of many houses and can be spied as you meander the streets. My coworkers are planning a secret Santa gift exchange and there is an excitement in the air as the end of the year approaches. I am so grateful for this experience and for the people that have shared it with me, be they Kiva Fellows, Kiva Followers or my friends and coworkers at Fundacion Leon 2000.

Jeremy Lapedis, KF9, Guatemala
During the Christmas Season in Guatemala, everyone celebrates convivos, in which a secret santa gift exchange takes place amongst festive eating. Thus far I have been to two of them and received a set of floral bowls and a cologne spray called Open in Case of Emergency. I’ll be spending Christmas Eve eating tomales at midnight and exchanging gifts with the family of the director of my MFI, with whom I am living. The next day will be full of visits to and from other families in which we share cookies and coffee.

Gemma North, KF9, Cambodia
There will be no baking for me this Christmas (ovens are a luxury in Cambodia). The country is primarily Buddhist, but the Cambodians’ great enthusiasm for holidays and parties is slowly beginning to carve out a place for Christmas in Phnom Penh. Many shop windows have put up a few garlands, fake Christmas trees or–for the more ostentatious crowd–big blow-up Santas. I have even heard kids at school singing Jingle Bells (presumably for English class). This year, I will compensate for having no snow by collecting seashells, eating crab and exploring the ruins of French colonial mansions in the small seaside town of Kep with Kiva Fellows Alex Duong, Josh Weinstein and Katie Davis (KF7).

Thomas Gold, KF9, Dominican Republic
Christmas definitely is a great event, prepared months in advance in the Dominican Republic. Each branch office of my MFI Esperanza has organized a celebration with its own “socios” (clients of the branch office). In the beginning of December, each of the branch office organized a “tombolazo” (big raffle) and went to the capital city to buy electrical appliances (fridge, stovs, washing machines) that were drawn among the borrowers. On the 21s songs.st, an internal celebration was organized in Santo Domingo for all staff members, with rewards prizes for the best employees,and one more tombolazo. I joined the music band (which were all employees of Esperanza) with an harmonica, for Christmas songs (The best way I found to avoid the awkward dancing, as it happenned in other MFIs!)

In the country, the tradition as it was described to me, is to have a big familiar dinner, and then streets get lively. Everyone puts music (mainly bachata, a fast and festive Dominican rythm) very loud, either from your house, in the little grocery store that become bars on nights thanks to heavy speakers, or from your car. The 25th of December is a very popluar day to go to the beach and rest from the night before.

Brian Kelly, KF9, Armenia
For Christmas, I will be returning from a three day conference with my entire MFI staff in the mountains of Armenia. The Armenians, being Christian Orthodox, celebrate Christmas on January 6th, but the real celebration of the holidays is the New Year. So I plan to have a mini-feast on the 25th with some western-celebrating friends (its a work day) with some of the familiar dishes from home normally shared with family. Perhaps I will try to acquire a plasticky green fake Christmas tree, as deforestation laws make it illegal to cut trees here, so naturally they are sold illegally, but for a steep price. Then I will look forward to the real celebration in Armenian fashion on January 1st…

Meg Gray, KF9 Nicaragua
I feel like everyone in Nicaragua has been asking me about my Christmas plans since the day I arrived. Without Thanksgiving to hold them back, Christmas decorations started showing up on houses and, of course, in stores at the end of October. The Nicas all get so excited when I tell them that “Yes, I will be spending Christmas in Nicaragua.” The first week of December celebrating really got started with “La Purisima” which is a week long holiday celebrating the Immaculate Conception. Shrines to Mary appeared all over the city and firecrackers that sound a bit like rapid gunfire filled the evenings. The shrines to Mary have all been replaced by Nativity scenes now, but the firecrackers remain. I will be celebrating Christmas Eve with the family I am living with including a traditional Catholic Mass. For Christmas, I will be cooking with several American friends and bringing toys and food to a local orphanage.

Rebecca Corey, KF9 Tanzania
Kristmas Njema na Heri ya Mwaka Mpya! Merry Christmas and a happy new year from Dar es Salaam. I’ve had a hard time getting into the holiday spirit. Every time I hear a Christmas song I wipe the sweat from my forehead and wonder why in the world anyone would play a Christmas song at this time of the year. Then I remember it’s December! There’s a small tree set up in the office of the Tujijenge office decorated with tinsel and a gold star. Even though it’s Christmas Eve, everyone is here at the office, hard at work. Tomorrow will be a day for family. I’ll be with my Tanzanian host family. We may even take a trip to the beach! Happy holidays to all of my friends and family, the Kiva Fellows, and all the Kiva lenders and borrowers. I’m so thankful for all of you!

Victoria Kabak, KF9, Nicaragua
Here in Nicaragua, it’s felt like Christmas has been going on since the beginning of November, when kids started setting off firecrackers at all hours of the day or night and haven’t stopped since (sometimes I could’ve sworn they sounded more like gunshots than firecrackers–not the best for the mental state or the sleep cycle). While the day after Christmas is always a bit sad, I can’t say I’ll be too sorry to say goodbye to the firecrackers…though I have a sneaking suspicion they might continue through New Year’s. Christmas vacation has brought my parents to me, so we’ll be spending tomorrow on the beach in Nicaragua’s San Juan Del Sur since pretty much everything else will be closed. Feliz Navidad!

Sheethal Shobowale, KF9, Peru
Feliz Navidad from Cusco! Christmas is an important holiday in Cusco (and is fairly commercial). Stores and homes put up Christmas lights starting at the end of November. On Christmas Eve, people from the provinces around Cusco come to the city to sell Christmas goods, alpaca snow gear, artisanal goods and fireworks at a huge market in the Plaza de Armas (main square) and other squares around town. Cusquenos exchange gifts and eat Panetone and drink chocolate caliente (hot chocolate). Several of Arariwa´s bancos comunales (village banks) exchange baskets of important household necesities like sugar, rice, milk, and butter, all placed in a plastic container that can be used to wash clothes that is of course wrapped in big ´´poofy´´ plastic. The grocery stores (Mega is the largest here) sell these baskets all ready to go. Luckily, my husband was able to come visit, so we are spending Christmas together here in Cusco. There´s no snow in Cusco, but there´s enough snow in my hometown of New York and in my husband´s hometown of Minneapolis to make up for it! I will be here in Cusco for New Years as well, where the tradition is to wear yellow underwear for prosperity, red underwear for love and eat 12 grapes to celebrate each new year month. Hope you and your family are enjoying the holidays!

Share the holiday spirit by lending through Kiva!

Related posts:

1. It’s Harder to Be Christian During Christmas in the States?
2. What Can A Kiva Fellow Learn About HSPFI Project Officers?
3. After the Deluge – Election Violence and a Tropical Storm in Mindanao

What I really wanted to write about was how I found myself slipping back into a more commercial/American mindset when I left the Philippines, which manifested itself in the fashion magazines that I pored over and many additions to a mental wishlist of wants. And also when I found myself back in the States at Honolulu International Airport facing an array of eats at the food court. My first instinct was “I want McDonald’s.” Which is not a rational decision because I rarely feel the need to go to McDonald’s and indulge in a Big Mac. I usually indulge in Pringles when I feel the need for junk food – another story for another time.

For me, choosing to eat McDonald’s or some other American fast food chain is (usually) more of a capitulation to what that meal symbolizes (e.g. American culture) as opposed to actually wanting to eat fast food. The fact that I didn’t actually end up eating at McDonald’s in Honolulu because there wasn’t one that I could see, or because I saw mapo tofu instead (way too tempting to give up after 2+ months of no tofu) is irrelevant. I can only shake my head at the commercial success of American fast food companies that makes me crave “something really American and easily accessible” with more regularity when I’m traveling to and from the U.S. – despite the fact that fast food is trashy.

Another thing that struck me when I left the Philippines was how I immediately slipped back into the American mindset of constantly weighing the (perceived) value of my time and how much that time gets wasted on a regular basis. At Hawaiian Airline’s check-in line in Manila Airport, I was stopped by airline employees no less than three times because I had let slip that I was carrying a lithium laptop battery in my check-in luggage. When I finally capitulated and laid my suitcase down to pull out the offending battery, another gentleman slipped past me and cut my place in line. After I quickly pulled out that damn battery I then proceeded to spend the next 15 minutes glaring and feeling generally pissed off at the world. Yes, I had just waited in a line that snaked across the concourse for almost an hour. But was it really worth it for me to spend the last 15 minutes in line feeling angry and sorry for myself? Not really.

As an American who’s just spent a few months abroad, the “commercial” aspect of the American psyche really stands out in high relief when I returned to the States. And this aspect of the American psyche is something I’d like to ditch in favor of something a little more zen. I think I found my zen in the Philippines – now I just need to figure out how to retain it.

Maybe a more fitting title for this post would be it’s harder to be Christian in the commercialized environment of the States, period?

To wrap up with something completely non-related and has absolutely nothing to do with Christmas (since tonight is Christmas Eve) – but will make you laugh – check out the octopus video below!

Related posts:

1. Holiday Greetings – KF9 on Christmas
2. What Can A Kiva Fellow Learn About HSPFI Project Officers?
3. The Dangers of Too Many Fiesta Meals, or Adventures with Filipino Eats

At any decent celebration, party, or fiesta in the Philippines there will always be lechon baboy, or roasted pig. The first time I had it was in Cebu, where it’s a local specialty. I had met up with fellow KF9er Ed Coambs one weekend and made a point to try out lechon baboy, since all my HSPFI co-workers kept telling me that Cebu has the best lechon baboy in the Philippines. We ended up getting a tame, chopped-up version in a restaurant recommended on Wikitravel. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t amazing either. I much preferred lechon manok, or roasted chicken. And to be honest, on that Cebu trip Ed and I gravitated towards American comfort foods. Like McDonald’s and pancakes.

I think this was Ed’s favorite meal in Cebu. He seemed a bit distraught when he learned that there’s a Pancake House in Cagayan de Oro, but not in Bacolod where he’s currently serving as a Kiva Fellow. Sorry, Ed. If it makes you feel any better, I haven’t gone to the Pancake House in Cagayan at all

But I digress. After returning to Cagayan de Oro, I got to eat lechon baboy at a HSPFI project officer’s son’s birthday party; at the after-party for HSPFI Illigan Branch’s 15th anniversary (and Christmas) party. Then I had it at the fiesta this past Tuesday. Twice. During lunch at a HSPFI co-worker’s house, and then during dinner at the HSPFI Executive Director’s.

I actually love eating lechon baboy, despite it’s somewhat… intense… appearance. I’ve always thought that you should call a spade a spade. If you enjoy being a meat-eater, you should be able to stomach eating meat that retained its original form and looks like the animal that it actually came from.

…Although I do admit these “after” pics of lechon baboy looks like complete carnage. Which never strikes me while I’m busy stuffing my face with roasted pig.

And actually, my downfall at the fiesta meals on Tuesday wasn’t lechon baboy. It was fatty pork. Large, gooey, oily, delicious chunks of pork meat and fat. I’ve always loved eating Chinese fatty pork dishes, so I was ecstatic when I found out that Filipinos like to eat fatty pork too. I ate so much fatty pork with rice on Tuesday (in addition to lechon baboy) that I ended up suffering from the “goldfish syndrome” – a favorite pet theory of mine. If you keep feeding goldfish, they’ll eat until they die. However, I used to have these amazing goldfish that would flip over and helplessly float stomach-up near the top of the tank when they overeat. (In case you were wondering, as my boyfriend sardonically asked when he first heard this story, they WEREN’T dead or dying.) They’d wiggle their little tails trying to flip right-side-up, but they won’t succeed until their stomachs finish digesting. Hence, the goldfish syndrome, which applies to humans too. I suffered from a particularly bad bout of goldfish syndrome after stuffing myself at the fiesta this Tuesday.

Apart from lechon baboy, I’ve sampled a variety of meats and offal in the Philippines. The most exotic dish that I’ve tried by far here though is balut – boiled duck egg with a partially developed “chick” inside.

I almost never say no to any dishes that my co-workers tell me to try, but I had been desperately hoping that I could get out of eating balut while I’m in the Philippines. I had read a previous Kiva Fellow’s encounter with balut before I ever thought of becoming a Kiva Fellow, and I honestly didn’t think I could stomach this dish. But my co-workers kept telling me how delicious it was, etc. It almost seemed like eating balut is an unofficial initiation rite for Kiva Fellows in the Philippines. So I was resigned when Corroi, HSPFI’s Kiva Coordinator, finally dragged me to a balut stand. I watched her eat one, and then she promised that she would pick one out for me that had a younger, less developed chick.

When Corroi cracked it open though, I could see the duck fetus all too clearly. I could see a little duck foot. I managed to suck the balut juice, then begged Corroi to eat the chick for me. I ate everything else – yolk, whites etc. which tasted pretty normal. I will admit that the juices, with a dash of vinegar, was pretty tasty. But yeah – I’m glad I can cross balut off my list and put it behind me.

Lechon baboy and balut aside, the main eating mishap that prompted me to write this post was actually me accidentally biting into a chili pepper thinking that it was a string bean during lunch yesterday. It was a pretty painful first experience – but you can thank that innocent-looking chili pepper for this long post on roasted pigs and duck fetuses.

Related posts:

1. Snapshots of Cebu – Day One
2. The Dangers of Being an MFI Loan Officer
3. What Can A Kiva Fellow Learn About HSPFI Project Officers?